Raf Simons’ SS21 collection fails at meaningfully reinterpreting the ’60s
Raf Simons has an obsession with youth culture. Usually it’s the culture of his own youth – to be specific, the post-punk and New Wave scene in Europe in the…
Massimo Tarridas
Dorian Electra explores digital chauvinism, fragile masculinity on “My Agenda”
Dorian Electra’s first album, “Flamboyant,” was a spectacular synth-pop deconstruction of toxic masculinity and a simultaneous exploration of Electra’s own gender identity. Their second album, “My Agenda,” released Oct. 16,…
Simons, Prada collab (only) pleases
There was a great deal of excitement surrounding Prada’s announcement that Raf Simons would join Miuccia Prada as co-creative designer. However, it was perhaps unmerited. Simons had already worked for…
Rick Owens SS21 Womenswear “Phlegethon”: a grim gaiety
Rick Owens is a designer who works entirely in a little world of his own creation. Each collection pushes the boundaries of this world ever so slightly, but never wanders…
Loeb exhibits migrant retablos from the border
Retablos, also called ex-votos, are votive paintings made to thank a religious figure for the future or past help during a difficult time. They’re usually painted on small sheets of…
A look back on Carol Christian Poell Autumn/Winter 2001
Carol Christian Poell is a Milan-based Austrian anti-fashion designer. He is known for his highly conceptual work in which he uses singular artisanal techniques. Poell’s most fabled pieces include a…
Riot! Riot! Riot! On archive fashion
The most recent thread of mainstream “archive fashion” started three or four years ago when popular fashion digested and moved onto its next 20-year cycle. We saw a re-appraisal of…
‘1917’ is not about war. It’s about film.
The first impulse I have after watching “1917” is self-destruction. This life is far too comfortable. Exiting the theater into an aseptic white hallway feels disrespectful. Even writing longer sentences…
‘Knives Out’ doesn’t disappoint, doesn’t please
“Knives Out” (2019) is not a film that deserves a whole lot of conversation, but a conversation about why it shouldn’t be receiving so much conversation might be in order.…